Printer "seriously" damaged after my second test print!

[Deadsculpt]

Hi

I have already informed Mark about this but i thought sharing here couldn't hurt.

It's my second time using the printer, and it's already seriously damaged, at least it's what i fear.
I have successfully printed the test ring yesterday, i was very happy to have a perfect print with my first try.
Second print, same settings different model, total damage.

I have removed the UV filter from my infocus projector though in doubt since i am using the FTD deep black resin.
With the filter removed, my first print with the settings shown came out nice even though i built huge supports that were almost impossible to remove.
With my second print i stopped the process after noticing only supports were printed, after removing the vat i noticed what is better seen in the pictures:
Somehow the resin filtered through the film and solidified on the quartz during the printing process, film and quartz were totally stuck together and were hard to separate, quartz looks gone for good to me .

I honestly have no idea of what happened, my uneducated theory is that heat concentrated in a visible spot, shot from the projector, damaged the mirror and the quartz and made a hole into the film letting resin through, basically like a magnifier lens under the sun.
What i can tell is that the film glued to the quartz and drops of resin somehow passed through it, i have no doubt it's unusable. The mirror has a burn mark with the same shape of what is visible on the quartz

I will leave it to your judgment but to me something went seriously wrong.

Any thoughts are welcome.

[mongerdesigns]

To be honest the subject of this thread is grossly misleading, and the blame clearly lies with the user. However, this is a good example of what NOT TO DO.

First off, the FTD resins are not officially supported. Meaning there is no provided settings in Contour. If you are going to use them, those FTD resin are extremely active and cure super quick. For those kinds of resins, you should not remove the UV filter. This has been covered in the forum a few times.

So if you're not sure about a resin, it's always good to ask first here in the forum, if you can't already find the answer.

Yes, the film most likely melted from the excess heat caused by the fast curing resin and hole got punctured in it, that will cause the film to fuse to the quartz and damage it. The resin that leaked on to the mirror most likely got cured on there with the continued printing.

You will need to replace your film, quartz, and most likely the mirror if it cannot be cleaned.

The moral of the story is, you shouldn't have removed the UV filter for that resin. Removing the UV filter is only recommended for slow curing resin, like the b9 resins, and the ones for which the settings are provided inside the Contour software.

[reify]

Should be an easy fix. I'm on my phone so it's hard to see the pics but I think there's just some cured resin on the quartz. I don't think it's possible to burn the mirror and it doesn't look like any resin dripped on it. Clean the quartz with IPA, change the film and you should be up and running again.

[Deadsculpt]

Hi and thanks for your reply

1-I have asked in the forum,the only person who seems to
be using FTD deep black has told me he has removed the filter.
Since i had many prints done in that manner this seemed the only
tested approach, clearly i was wrong.

2- You have told me on the same post not to remove the filter, that is true.

3-To my knowledge, no warning on the possible damage of the optical components in relation with uv filters and resins
is given anywhere, not in the forum nor in the very slim and minimal "manual" provided, which lacks tons of information i feel should be given.
The faqs on the website state that the solus
is designed to work with most resins, including castable resins from 3rd party manufacturers,
good to know...now i find out only what is shown in contour is "official" and "supported". I understand not every resin on the market can be tested, but knowing that only very expensive resins are supported and none of the budget ones are listed in contour could help make a more informed purchase.
Not that i regret it, but seeing it break after the second use is not a good feeling.

As you said all those parts are likely to need replacement, will double check with Mark and just hope they are covered by the "warranty".

[Deadsculpt]

Mark

Burned might be the wrong word, don't really know.
I took a picture from the front window and it can be seen that the same shape visible on the quartz is also visible on the mirror. How it got there, we need to find out so it doesn't happen again, for starters the uv filter will be put back on as suggested by mongerdesign.
Will now try to clean the quartz with ipa as advised and will update you.

[mongerdesigns]

The manual indicates that the UV filter needs to be removed for slow curing resins. All the resins that have been tested work well with the UV filter removed.

Some inexpensive resins like the FTD, some MJ resin, are designed to be uses with the UV filter in place. They are not very high resolution resins either, designed to be printed at 50 micron layers and above, and that is one of the reasons why they are fast curing.

Most resins work, but it's important to know the capabilities and limitations of each before you risk damaging your machine.

We are here to help, but if you ignore the advice given about not removing the filter for the ftd resins, then things like this can happen. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=497&p=4223&hilit=ftd+resin#p4223

Like Mark said, it's possible that the damage is minimal. Try cleaning the quartz, change the film and take it from there. If the quartz is damage, it's relatively easy to replace.

[Deadsculpt]

As i said, i should have left the filter on, blame on the user, sure taken.
Thanks for the help and advice given, next time i need to buy a resin i will ask you and Mark.
The prints i own done with the FTD deep black are satisfactory for my needs in terms of quality, but i do see that the solus goes beyond that.
The suggested resins are out of budget for me at the moment and i would love to see more official support for brands like FTD 3DM and Makerjuice, i would guess i am not alone in this and probably few beginners are going to start with the proto.

[mongerdesigns]

You can use those cheaper resins just fine as long as you leave the uv filter in. To print at finer layer slice resolution, you may need to add some more pigment to them in order to block the light better. It will require lots of trial and error but it's totally doable.

[nillard]

It said that right in my instruction manual...

[Deadsculpt]

The manual doesn't seem to warn about what can happen, it just says on page 4 that Proto and most castable resins need the filter off.
Not all scenarios can be tested of course..but i hope a few words of warning are added to the manual.
What happened to me was very minor after all, so yes it's not the serious damage i feared, the film melted and a tiny hole let some drops of resin drip on the quartz, it all solidified together but i managed to clean it today with IPA,compressed air and lens wipes.
The mirror was not damaged, the film needs to be replaced.
It would be good to know when a resin is considered fast enough (or what range of exposure in general) for the UV filter to be put back on, a chart perhaps?

Thanks to Mark and Monger for the help.