first job...........

General topics about 3d printing.
englishcadmaster
Novice
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:19 am

first job...........

Postby englishcadmaster » Sat Jun 04, 2016 3:31 pm

ran into more troubles..... i sliced the file great then gone to the control tab to home in the creative works and its blank.

machine seems to be switched on...... is this a driver thing you think as didnt see it instal but tried the manual one and seems to be like some sort of sketch thing?

the connect icon is greyed out.

pulling me hair out here as every step has been tricky as my laptop didnt have the normal menus on windows 10 so had to go to the registry and alter stuff there to make them appear!

what to do any ideas?

thanks,

r
User avatar
reify
Site Admin
Posts: 558
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2015 6:10 pm

Re: first job...........

Postby reify » Sat Jun 04, 2016 4:10 pm

I can hook up to your computer to take a look.
englishcadmaster
Novice
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:19 am

Re: first job...........

Postby englishcadmaster » Tue Jun 07, 2016 6:33 pm

hiya, mark was kind enough to hook up and sort stuff out for me.

so I ve now got builds working! not perfect though as the rings are coming out oval for some reason?

meaning they... are wider as they should be diameter of 16.4mm not 17.5mm...... just curing them now.

internal ring size is as per picture in mm.

the shank is 2.8mm wide and 2.1mm deep so should self support... i put the centre support in as a safety measure.

in fact I thought it may be sagging however I just measured the base and it should be 18.5mm and its actually 21.7mm

any ideas?

thanks,

r
Attachments
IMG_0622.JPG
User avatar
mongerdesigns
Solus Guru
Posts: 1904
Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:16 pm
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Re: first job...........

Postby mongerdesigns » Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:55 pm

Make a 20mm x 20mm x 5mm cube.

Open it in CW, slice it. Then go to the Slice View tab, click the display icon on the bottom left corner (a few times maybe), and it should project the slice on your projector. Put a piece of paper on top of the quartz and measure the projection.

If you're not getting a perfect 20mm x 20mm square, then you need to make some adjustments. If the projection is uniformly small, then need to zoom in a little. If on side is bigger than the other, then your graphics card settings need to be adjusted, so that the aspect ratio is correct.
Monger Designs a.k.a. Monger
http://www.mongerdesigns.com

Junction3d - Official US Distributor for the SOLUS 3D PRINTER
http://www.junction3d.com

Follow us on Instagram!
https://www.instagram.com/junction3d/
englishcadmaster
Novice
Posts: 13
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:19 am

Re: first job...........

Postby englishcadmaster » Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:30 pm

now getting a cube printed in resin of 20.6mm by 20.07mm by 19.98mm tall so hey seems this part is for now cracked..... I used aspect ratio so thank you all for helping.

the edges are nt so crisp guess has a 0.2mm radius or something not sharp...be good to get them crisper? is that an anti alias thing or something I am using the cherry resin maybe mixing the resins get better results?

or is that a focus thing.......... apart from the calibration grid is there another way of focus as its all bit small to see the very best crispest lines on the paper that on the glass even when dark?

just wondering thanks,

r
Attachments
IMG_0630.JPG
IMG_0630.JPG (42.52 KiB) Viewed 4861 times
User avatar
nzfinescale
Novice
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 5:13 am

Re: first job...........

Postby nzfinescale » Thu Jun 09, 2016 1:28 am

On my setup using SolusProto at 25/25/25 the recommended exposure is 1200 or 1400ms (from memory).

A 0.5mm square wire printed at 0.65mm or thereabouts. - so a definite softening of detail. This is due to light leakage. The increase was constant over different wire sizes, so not calibration or focus.

I reduced exposure progressively, down to 300ms (ie a LOT) to get a 0.5mm wire to size. Print is still good, but obviously a little softer. This is not all bad as removing supports is easy. The downside is that the softer print needs better support, which can be quite an issue depending on the model. The other downside is that surface quality is not quite as good as at full exposure.

I also turned off AA. Not sure of the impact of that, and may contribute to the surface finish loss. I'm still learning! When I get back to Proto I'll probably add some AA and see what happens.

I've just started with B9 Emerald. My initial impression is that at the recommended profile it is closer to size than the Proto. In fact I increased exposure and reduced Z to 25micron. A bit of AA did seem to improve the surface finish. The Emerald comments are a bit subjective though as I haven't done much with it. The reason I mention it is that clearly resins behave differently.

I'm after fine sharp detail and the Proto is wicked for that.

Lawrence
Wdshea
Solus Expert
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:49 am

Re: first job...........

Postby Wdshea » Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:26 am

i think you should print something of a known width, or measure something of a known width on the quartz.

measuring the light will get you in the ballpark, but in the end, it's what the print comes out to be.

i'd adjust your build area manually to correct for this issue.

your rings are oval because your X is too wide. (assuming the ring is oriented in parallel with X)

Z is your reference. 40 layers of 25 microns is always 1mm, right? it will always be 1mm.

your build area must be adjusted specifically to that.

make X smaller .2mm, and maybe they ain't oval no more. i wouldn't worry about x and y microns not being equal either, all that matters is what works.

P.S. i always use a 25mm cube, and actually adjust my build area to measure 26mm to get proper sizing for my rings. my rings are printed horizontally.
MarkPhilip
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:25 pm

Re: first job...........

Postby MarkPhilip » Thu Jun 16, 2016 4:34 am

I posted a solve to the dimension issue under "discrepancy between CW and what's actually projected" in the private forum section.

I wrote about lining of the measurements of a 25mm cube by changing that build area settings. But i there is a problem with this. Yes you can line up a 25mm cube so that the X and Y are correct but this is only for the center of the build plate. If you make a smaller cube like 10mm and place them all around the build area you'll notice the X and Y axis are different for each one of them when you measure them on the quartz. Even if you just calibrated the 25mm cube. This distortion of the build area that is being projected onto the quartz is entirely due to the lens, so you have to work with it. I thought i had fixed the dimensions issue with this test but realized that each individual model needs different X and Y adjustments so you can't just change the build area settings in configure because it affects all the models at once. Hopefully though, there is a fix to this. I wrote a really long post on this, but here's the short.

Since each model has different XY values when you place them all around the build area (even if they are the same model) all you have to do is scale each individual models XY axis in CW. How do you do this? There is a sub menu in "3D View" under "Scale%" open it and you'll see that there are options for you to change the X or Y axis of an individual model. So it's pretty straight forward from here. Need to add or subtract a mm from the X Y axis? > go to Scale menu > Adjust > re-slice > re-measure on quartz > repeat.

1.) Measure the X Y of your models on the quartz.
2.) Go to the Scale sub menu and adjust accordingly. For example if you measure on the quartz a model is off by 1mm on the X axis > go to the Scale sub menu > change the value of the X tab from "100.00" to "101.00" > click the check mark> then re-slice the build area to update the change. Now when you go back to measure the model on the quartz and it should be fixed, if not go back adjust and repeat the process. I went into depth on my original post about this. And don't worry about the warped or stretched look in the "3D View" after you make the changes, it's not what is going to appear on the quartz. Remember that whatever measurements that show up on the quartz is what is actually going to be printed, not the values or look inputted in CW.
3.) Once the XY measurements of the first/second layer are correct on the quartz, the whole build will follow.

NOTE: You don't have to change your build area settings in Configure, keep that at 25 microns. Just scale your models in the "3D View".

This may seem like a hassle to adjust each individual model but it really won't take more than 5-10 mins of your time. Since i discovered this work around all my models have been coming out with the exact dimensions i designed them as. Hopefully this will help you or anybody else out, take care.

PS. I will post pictures if anybody is confused about this, let me know.
Wdshea
Solus Expert
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:49 am

Re: first job...........

Postby Wdshea » Thu Jun 16, 2016 4:42 am

were you able to figure out how much percentage X & Y for a given location. meaning i could scale any model in that location the same, and assuming they were roughly the same size, they'd come out accurate?
MarkPhilip
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:25 pm

Re: first job...........

Postby MarkPhilip » Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:08 pm

The only way would to be sure is to measure the X and Y axis on all your models that show up on the quartz. Then based on that observation adjust in the scale sub menu accordingly. You cant just hope for the rings in the same location to be the same. Nearly every area of the build area will be different because of the distorting effect of the lens. It may be minute but if you want precision you have to investigate each individual model on the quartz.

The measurement should be easy anyway and shouldn't be a hassle. So here are my exact steps to make it clear.

Precursors: 1. Write down the XY measurements of the models you intend to print and make sure the number is a whole number. This is to make measuring it easy. Don't make the X of base support 17.4mm make it 17mm, do the same with the Y. Write this down so when you measure on the quartz you'll know what it's supposed to be.

Printer:
1.) Prepare the Vat (clean it out), Syringe your Resin to 40 ml. Leave that to the side for now.
2.) Turn on my projector and open CW "run as administrator"
3.) Turn on Arduino Plug, and run the homing step.
4.) Load your models in the 3d View
5.) Slice
6.) Turn on Projector
7.) Now for the measuring tool you might have to go and buy a thin paper ruler, or make your own on a thin piece of paper. I got mine from IKEA for free. Why do this? One, to make it easy to measure exactly on the quartz, you can put the paper directly on it and see the exact mm. Two, so you don't scratch the quartz. Any hard measuring tool has the potential to scratch the quartz, i.e. a caliper, and metal/plastic ruler. Also wear sunglasses for this.
8.) Measure the XY of one model and see if it is the same mm as what you designed the base support as in your design software (rhino,matrix,artcad, etc.) Look at what you wrote down and see if it's the same.
9.) If not, highlight that model in the 3D view tab and scroll down to "Scale%" and adjust according to what you need. Add or Subtract from the X or Y axis based on what you observed on the quartz.
10.) Click the Slice button again to update the changes.
11.) Go to the quartz and measure to see if it lines up. If it does, measure the next model you loaded and repeat steps 8-10. If not, the process is the same repeat steps 8-10.
12.) Once every individual model lines up on the quartz and each measurement is correct, i suggest you save the scene as a whole, so you don't have to repeat the process if you're building the same batch.
13.) Clean the quartz with a microfibre cloth.
14.) Add the vat (without resin) and then add the Build plate.
15.) Get your syringe with the resin and inject it into the vat.
16.) Close the hood, remove the shutter and press play. All done.

I hate to be so lengthy, so that is why i'm going to post pictures soon. Thanks for your time.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest