resin?

[manakawari]

it was previously suggested that I try b9 black resin because im looking for a resin capable of achieving very fine detail but will cure relatively hard and durable.

It appears that b9 resin is only available in KG bottles...id rather not spend $200 on my first resin when at this stage (my very first print) im not quite sure what im looking for in a resin.

Does anyone perhaps have another suggestion for resin that will NOT be used for investment casting but rather for printing functional parts and ideally a resin that cures hard and durable and one that's available is small bottles so I do not have to spend so much to find out if it works or not?

actually I would love to source not only a resin that cures very hard and can achieve the best possible detail, but it would be a bonus if the resin was unpigmented and I could add pigments based on the color I need at that time.

Oh and if this resin was already tested and settings were available that would be a huge plus.

So in order or importance

1- best possible resolution and very hard when cured.
2- unpigmented so I could create custom colors
3-has been proven to work on the solus and settings are available
4- available in smaller than 1 KG bottles

anyone??

[manakawari]

Nothing?? How about makerjuice resins??? are these compatible with the solus?

It appears they have a hard resin, they claim good resolution, its unpigmented and they sell pigment where I can change the color and its sold in liter bottles..seems this is exactly what im looking for no??

Had anyone used makerjuice resins with a solus?? if so and if I intend to change the color of the resin to suit the specific jobs, will the settings mean little because the settings will be dependent on the color and amount of pigment I add??

I have zero experience as this resin purchase will go to my first solus print.

Thanks

[Sebastien_Lani]

I bought the maker juixe but haven t tried yet. Same for b9 black.

Spot-A is close to what you are asking for. Unpigmented and with potential high res in black. It is not hard as FTD black industrial blend but with this one I'm having a lot of fail prints.

Mixing pigment can be a risk as you have to find right parameters for the good mixture... and eventually there can be no good parameters...

So I think you should try the spot-A.

[mongerdesigns]

Nothing?? How about makerjuice resins??? are these compatible with the solus?

It appears they have a hard resin, they claim good resolution, its unpigmented and they sell pigment where I can change the color and its sold in liter bottles..seems this is exactly what im looking for no??

Had anyone used makerjuice resins with a solus?? if so and if I intend to change the color of the resin to suit the specific jobs, will the settings mean little because the settings will be dependent on the color and amount of pigment I add??

I have zero experience as this resin purchase will go to my first solus print.

Thanks

James,

I just sent you an email. I have used the makerjuice SF resin in the past. It works great, however you need put the UV filter back into the projector bulb housing. You also need to add more pigment if you want to print at thin layers like 30 or 25 microns. Each color and each pigment will behave differently, so you will need experiment and get your settings tuned. They have the pigment amounts in their resins listed on the website. http://www.makerjuice.com/pigment-concentrations/

So you can figure out how much more you need to add to bump up the resolution. Too much pigment will render the resin useless. So only mix in small test amounts until you find the correct ratios. You don't want to waste an entire bottle of resin.

[jisaac]

Hi mongerdesigns,

I haven't used my solus yet, and for my first print I will use the red MakerJuice SF.

I found this settings from manakawari:
Exposure time of 2800 and bottom exposure @ 12000, slice thickness of .030 and with adding an additional .5 percent red pigment and AA set to 4.
( viewtopic.php?f=8&t=355&p=2735&hilit=makerjuice+SF#p2735 )

What/where is AA?

I will put the UV filter back into the projector bulb housing, as you recommend?

However, I would like to know what is the curing process that you had experimented:
Cleaning with IPA?
With or without water into UV curing lamp ? How long?

Thank you for your time,

Jacques

[Jewelermdt]

AA is Anti-Aliasing it's a setting under preferences.
[img]

AA.JPG

[/img]

[jisaac]

Thanks Jewelermdt for your response.
I think manakawari set AA to 4 because he used Creation Workshop.
I will leave AA in contour set to medium, and will see.

[Jewelermdt]

That's what I used with CW.