Curing

[mongerdesigns]

Vacuuming the flask to get rid of the ash seems to work really well. Also ensuring good airflow in the oven and thoroughly uv/heat curing the resins before casting can lessen the ash residue.

[ken3dcad]

I got the same result accidentally while "heat curing" a model.. I accidentally had the programmer on my burnout cycle rather than at a steady 345F. Two hours later when I went to pull it out, the temp had reached 750F. My model was gone, other than some black ashes.

[DDBright]

Is there a better resin that we can use NOW, other than the B9 Cherry. (I just ordered a new bottle, so there is probably something better and I will have just wasted $138.00)

These people are dumber than monkeys. They were telling me all along that they were following my instructions for casting. The other day they showed me 4 pieces they cast, all failures, and whining about the B9 resin.
I asked them to show me exactly what they were doing. Come to find out that their burn out cycle consists of setting the oven on number 5 and going home. NOT exactly following a casting schedule.
I have them ordering a kiln minder and injecting air into the oven. So they are going to come back at me with a vengeance if they still can't cast this stuff. They think that resins should cast just like wax.

Is there something that I can use NOW?

David

[mongerdesigns]

David,

Got an idea. You can probably contact ET and ASIGA and tell them to send you a printed sample of their "magic" wax resins. If it casts like wax then we can most like print with that resin on the Solus

Unless they melt those wax resins in the printer or something.

[DDBright]

Emil

You can only get the ET resins if you own an ET Machine. Only other way is to have someone listed in their database, buy it for you. Asiga Resins may be a little bit easier to get a hold of. But, with their track record of casting problems, I would only want to buy it if it actually works. Problems, I already have, and I am not looking to compound them.

David

[mongerdesigns]

David,

Do your customers use plasticast or satincast? I know some pros like you can make it work (adding boric acid etc), but most people don't do that. I've casted hundres of cherry, formlabs, and et resin pieces with plasticast and have only had a few issues not related to the resin.

Tell them to use plasticast and follow the plasticast burnout. Also, the prints need to be completely cured.

What I was suggesting is not to buy the ET or the Asiga resins, but to get the samples prints of their new "wax" resins and test the casting. I have a feeling that even though they claim "easy as wax casting", it's mostly marketing.

[Wdshea]

We recently purchased a solus (can't wait!)

But we have cast many models from the solus in b9 cherry.

I can't speak to how they were cured, but what I can tell you is burnout is very important.

Air flow is important, oxygen is required to properly break down the resin. Also, the resin doesn't break down as well at higher temps as it does at lower temps. It sounds weird, but it is a fact.

I've cast the cherry with only 2 specks on the casting of what I attribute to ash, and I didn't vac the mold. When I say speck, they are about .2mm, and may not even be ash.