Reify3D Forum

What you should probably do is to put your big pieces as vertical as possible. Do not add any other piece to your flask unless you have a 7 CFM vacuum. Always use fresh silver. our cast temp is 900 F for silver. Good Luck

Hello,

I have DVP Italy LC12 ( DVP 12m3) vacuum pump....after putting in flask will upload image so everybody can see...if need changes i'll do then after will cast.....

I use silver sprue which was cast(tree parts)....i don't mix silver dust/powder...also I get too much holes while cut spure ends n filling..

if you can , as a backup , make another DOOR soulcast resin with no wax at all , only the sprus , and invest at 36/100 , with or without boric ? as a test , I think this too will come out but lets see , if you have the extra metal , both in same oven at same time , as a test

dcpattni wrote:also I get too much holes while cut spure ends n filling..

Hi Dipen, I have been joining and repairing B9 resins prints with wax for years and had no problems in Omega+ or Satin Cast. When I had the Asiga as the prints would take so much time I would often cut the model in half in CAD and join it with wax post print to cut down the print time. Still do this today with the Solus when I am in a hurry or the model suits it. Sounds like others have issues with the mixing of wax and resin but I don`t.

Cast photo of 18ct Palladium white gold from 2016 with the Asiga. Sorry it is low resolution but we only embed small photos into our database. You can still see that the wax join is smooth on the ring both sides and no defects to the resin areas near. The ring in the second photo was printed in halves with B9 Cherry on the Solus and joined with Freeman Filligree Pink 30761, but I have used other waxes with success.

It might be that your investment or Soluscast does not like the wax or something else. Pretty easy to check to see if there is damage around the area you applied the wax I would have thought. If none then I think your problems are elsewhwere. Good luck.

cheers,
Sochin

I have no issue with wax and resin , I think there is no problem with casting at all , its just that he is spending a lot of time in this case doing something that I think waits time unnecessarily , if it helps great but for this I think it doesn't

rsaldivar wrote:I have no issue with wax and resin , I think there is no problem with casting at all , its just that he is spending a lot of time in this case doing something that I think waits time unnecessarily , if it helps great but for this I think it doesn't

Hi rsaldivar, not sure we are talking about the same thing. He fills the holes created during his support removal with wax to save time by removing the need to fill those holes after casting or thinning his piece by filing them out. To get a good product he needs those holes filled. Besides with wax it takes minutes to fill little holes like that. Much quicker than fixing them in metal I would have thought.

Others have said that wax on the model can cause defects, pretty sure that was not you and I was not replying to you.........in any event it must be the case with different resins and investment other wise they would not say it......but for me I have no problems with B9 resins and wax in Satin cast or Omega+.

Would be interested to hear if the wax reacts with Soluscast if that is the case.

cheers,
Sochin

Sochin,

I wonder if the fact that the wax may be trapped behind the resin during the low temp phase (300°F) of the burnout could be an issue?

During traditional lost wax casting, the wax would liquefy and drain from the flask during this period, but using a resin print which is still pretty solid at 300°F, it may cause some deterioration of the investment since the wax has no where to go as it boils away. The melted wax would move into the investment before it (the investment) has a chance to dry out entering into the 700°F expansion phase and that could cause some surface pitting or orange peel texture on the cast metal object.

rkundla wrote:I wonder if the fact that the wax may be trapped behind the resin during the low temp phase (300°F) of the burnout could be an issue?

Hi Ron,

For some people with different setups I believe that is the case. I do not have those problems however.

The graining on the surface of that cast photo is because near the end of the life of my Asiga the lens/projector/power supply (according to Asiga) were all failing and my prints started to get quite grainy. In general for the last couple of years and in particular the last year I used the Asiga the prints were getting pretty bad.

I budgeted to get 3 years out of the Asiga and in the end I got 4. The cost to repair the Asiga was more than to upgrade and both more than to buy the Solus. I purchased the Solus and the prints are better/ faster...you all know.

Added to that with 18ct palladium white gold I get a less smooth cast surface in general.

Here is another photo from the data base of a print joined with wax and cast in 2016 on the Asiga (lol look at those grow lines) in 18ct yellow gold. Sorry once again for the low resolution. You can see there is no reaction around the wax.

cheers,
Sochin

Late reply. Been on Vacation DC, If I use wax to fix an area, I will run a wax wire from it to the spru base. As said above, If wax has noway to melt out, it will just sit there and boil and infuse into investment. Can cause bad areas of cast. Don't break off these supports. Cut them off with wire cutter or use a separating disk to grind them off. I find it hard to get detail to cast well. Too thick of investment will not allow it to fill in around the detail. Needs to be a little thinner. You will need to let the flask sit for 4 hours or more. The longer the better I have found.

There is a new product almost like the Emerald. So it prints and casts like the Emerald. Using also the emerald Profile. Unless the mediator of the site would create a profile for it.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/ember ... sin/701285