CAST HELP ASAP PLS!!!!!!!! NEW TO CASTING

[Mikkopee]

Here is what problems we have when casting SWP.

Might be a cleaning issue and/or reaction with the investment. If I over clean the SWP models they can break down. Perhaps check you models after cleaning if you are not already to see if that is an issue.

I also wonder if leaving invested flasks stand for too long can lead to the resin sweating inside the flask and giving surface and burnout issues. No proof of this but that is why I try to only let them stand for about 3 hours.

That said....we all only have so much time so if you have another resin working for you then stick to it. Now is so much better than when we had to make one of the few resins we had to choose from work. Today you just use what works the easiest for you. Someone else might have other ideas.

Good luck.

cheers,
Sochin

I only use IPA less than 2min after printig. IPA and blow dry. No water. Then UV oven 10min/side. Flask sits 2-3h before starting to heat.

B9 I use 1min IPA, 1min boiling soapwater, blow dry. Repeat 3 times. Then 20min boiling water and let cool. Then I cut supports off and UV oven 10min/side.

Takes lot of time and work but castings are flawless

[sochin]

I only use IPA less than 2min after printig. IPA and blow dry. No water. Then UV oven 10min/side. Flask sits 2-3h before starting to heat.

2 minutes sounds too long to me. The surface of SWP is more delicate than B9 IMO.

I agitate each piece individually in IPA for about 10-20 seconds then ultrasonic with agitation for about 10 -20 seconds. Repeat in really clean IPA and ultrasonic. Finish with a rinse of water then blow dry. If my print surface does not look like dry wax after that I go again.

B9 I use 1min IPA, 1min boiling soapwater, blow dry. Repeat 3 times. Then 20min boiling water and let cool. Then I cut supports off and UV oven 10min/side.

When I was still doing B9 I did microwave for a while but ended up just heat curing for an hour in my kiln. If B9 is working for you and you can get it then stick to it. That is what I would do. SWP works for me and is quicker that B9.....and I cannot get B9 anyway.....so I will stick with SWP.

cheers,
Sochin

[M-Williams]

I have no experience with your resin. However, Curing is a major factor in any Successful casting. You got some air Bubbles, you need to check your water/ powder ratio too.

[Jewelermdt]

Most of my problems is I heat the metal too hot. This will cause pits, hole in your casting. I let the investment sit at least 5 hours. I get better results if I let them sit overnight before putting in oven. Especially with fine detail and lettering. I use a Necraft oven with a add on controller. Vacuum cast.

[ken3dcad]

I know I'm late to the show. I hardly visit the forums anymore. For those still having casting issues, you might want to try the PROCAD barrier liquid. This stuff is amazing! I'm not really sure what is in it, but it has eliminated any surface casting issues I had.
Hope everyone is well!
https://www.stuller.com/products/24-119 ... eSearchRAC

[sochin]

you might want to try the PROCAD barrier liquid. This stuff is amazing!

Thanks for the tip Ken, might be good for larger pieces that I sometimes get issues with. Smaller stuff the Solus Wax Pro is really good.

This forum is very quiet, I drop in every couple of months or so I guess. I think a sign that most can get this stuff to work nowadays ......not like 7 to 10 years ago.

cheers,
Sochin

[reify]

Hi,

I think many people have now switched to using the FB forum "3-D Printing and Casting for JEWELRY" A lot of Solus users there.

[Mikkopee]

Hi,

I think many people have now switched to using the FB forum "3-D Printing and Casting for JEWELRY" A lot of Solus users there.

Sad coz lot of us dont use FB
I like old fashion forums better.