Reify3D Forum

Dstonic wrote:Was reading this post earlier and thought to share how our Emerald Green jobs have been turning out.

Very nice! What is your process?

Cure Cure Cure !!!!
I use QUANS 20W UV Ultra Violet LED Light (two of them) 24hrs then boil in distilled water 3 mins in microwave and let cool ...WE DO THIS THREE TIMES !!!! Then its over to the lizard lamp anywhere from 24-48 hrs. Just depends how dense the model is in structure.
Plasti Cast 38/100 ratio. Let flask set 6 hrs....burn out in oven 2 hrs at 350, 1.5 hours at 850 and 4 hours at 1375......I do not believe that leaving the flask soak or sit in the oven after the temp reaches 850 after burn cycle achieves anything in relevance to casting the model. Remember that the oven slowly lowers the temp to 850 over a extended amount of time, this is perfectly fine and we have performed great casting results.
Our cast pieces as you can see go straight into the tumbler without any hands on work once they are cut off the tree.

Thought to refresh our continued Superior success using the Solus printer. Emil, you and your company are the best.

We cast at 1400°(ramp 9999 on the controller) full blast straight in the furnace after the flask sets 5 hrs in Opti Cast....ramp down 650°per hour then cast at 850°.

How in the heck do I turn this image? URGGGH!!!!

Thank you David. Excellent castings!

Dstonic wrote:Thought to refresh our continued Superior success using the Solus printer. Emil, you and your company are the best.

We cast at 1400°(ramp 9999 on the controller) full blast straight in the furnace after the flask sets 5 hrs in Opti Cast....ramp down 650°per hour then cast at 850°.

How in the heck do I turn this image? URGGGH!!!!

As clear as you make this I have a question.
Your burnout is

Step 1 Ramp full to 1400F Hold for no minutes at 1400F
Step 2 Ramp down 650F per hour to 850F Hold for no minutes at 850F
Step 3 Cast

That's it?

How long does that burnout take?

My first guess is "as long as it takes" but it does vary based on the flask volume.

i would suggest du ram at first to 150°.
It hardens the investment, and then its ready for the real burnout of the resin.
We tried last month to go at first to 100C° for 3 hours, than to 150 for 1 hour and then right to 450 or 470

The 800°C for 5 hours are very important.

I will try i full ramp without step betweet to 800 - mybe it works also very good

printcast wrote:

Dstonic wrote:Thought to refresh our continued Superior success using the Solus printer. Emil, you and your company are the best.

We cast at 1400°(ramp 9999 on the controller) full blast straight in the furnace after the flask sets 5 hrs in Opti Cast....ramp down 650°per hour then cast at 850°.

How in the heck do I turn this image? URGGGH!!!!

As clear as you make this I have a question.
Your burnout is

Step 1 Ramp full to 1400F Hold for no minutes at 1400F
Step 2 Ramp down 650F per hour to 850F Hold for no minutes at 850F
Step 3 Cast

That's it?

How long does that burnout take?

Sorry to just now getting to answering your question. That's how simple it is, exactly. A few post back I've mentioned "cure cure cure"....does my recent post make that null and void? Well, I have to say I can't really honestly answer that. If you noticed my two larger rings I have pictures of in this thread you can clearly see we had great success. Now days, you can see by the two trees we've have posted are just as good.
If I had to sum up things.....We are all doing a trial and balance thing with curing techniques, ( to cure in water or oil) (how long to cure) (ramp and burns) ....can vary from my oven vs your oven....vacuum or centrifugal. What I say? .....if your procedure is working and is totally different than mine or anyone else on this forum, then stay with it but be open or open minded to allow changes as you go along. I changed from my previous post about burn out to the three steps I've mention just recently.
Oh and the cure step I do now? I cure in distilled water under two Quan UV lamps 15 mins or a tad longer for thicker pieces. Who would know curing in water was working better? But after I finish my new bottle of B9, I'll try the new wax coming out.

New pictures of todays castings.
I think there is nothing more to say

We were able to improve the quality of our casting with a "new" burnout ( 1h30 min on 100 and up to 180 °C vor 1h30m before ramp up to 430( 9°C/min. - hold for 3 hours - ime where resin becomes soft and want to get out) and 3 hours at 800°C)
Also we recognised a great imrovement of the casting caused of a vaccum mixer ( dental - renfert twister), a slow release of air in the vaccum chamber after evacuation AND a our new vibration device ( used for dental industry in german we say "Rüttler". )

Because of the perfect mixing there are to parts in the investment that are not homogen.

We recognised that the supports (we cast theses models with supports) improve the ability to get enought oxygen durning the burnout.
we casted 2 model with and two models without. it was not a big difference, but under the microscope we saw better surface quality on the models with supports on.

We will make more tests.
At first it was just a mistake.

Christian K. wrote:We were able to improve the quality of our casting with a "new" burnout ( 1h30 min on 100 and up to 180 °C vor 1h30m before ramp up to 430( 9°C/min. - hold for 3 hours - ime where resin becomes soft and want to get out) and 3 hours at 800°C)

So what was the total time to burn out before casting based on your comment above?

Christian K. wrote:We recognised that the supports (we cast theses models with supports) improve the ability to get enought oxygen durning the burnout.
we casted 2 model with and two models without. it was not a big difference, but under the microscope we saw better surface quality on the models with supports on.

By supports you mean the internal ones in your photo?

Whatever you did, your casting looks perfect.